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@Stan Galat posted:

No, you are not.

Rick had it right (in his straight-talk NYC way) 33 post up.

It was a quiet winter in Lake Woebegon....

"Where all the women are strong, the men are good looking and the children are above average"

Admittedly the sump filter system does not have as fine a micron capability as a spin-on cartridge filter.  As such, if it becomes filled with debris to the point of starving the oil pump, chances are the motor was "toast" beforehand.

But it does provide more filtration than the stock screen-door filter. Also this sump filter is an easy way to increase the motor's inadequate oil reservoir.

Lastly, my career experience designing, operating and troubleshooting high-pressure hydraulic control systems has taught me to make every effort to minimize the quantity of failure points -- i.e. hoses, fittings -- when designing such a system.

In summary, I've chosen the sump filter because it:

1) Provides greater filtration compared to the stock "screen".

2) It adds an additional quart of oil.

3) It's easy to install and, more importantly, it minimizes the quantity of failure/leak points.

Guy Noir

@edsnova posted:

It will work. Go with God.

Sure.

... but whatever you do, don't ever put a plastic fuel filter inside the engine compartment. If you do, plagues will fall upon you. Locusts will eat your grain. Boils will rise up on your children. Cankers will eat at your bones. The sun will be blotted out and the stars will fall from the skies.

Worst of all, fires will spontaneously combust in your car -- all for no reason other than that your filter was plastic, rather than metal.

Don't be that guy. Do the thing. Buy the metal fuel filter. Save what is left of civilization.

.

Sometimes folks wander in here not so much for advice, but for confirmation of a decision already made. There's no harm in that, as here in the forum, all of our decisions are above average.

This filter that is not quite a filter, while not the best thing to bolt on to one's car, is far from the worst. It may not help much, but it will probably do no harm, and more importantly, it will make you feel that you have done something good for your car.

It's reversible, so later on you can remove it and add something else that also does no harm. Many of us engage in this process constantly, but manage to spend far more money at it.

Remember, we are here not to criticize but to provide help — and to a much greater extent than the Catchup Advisory Board.

.

Amen.  And . . . that very fine blue filter thing is beautiful.  Txs for sharing.  I tend to go with function first, style second.  When the two come all at once, all the better.

My 2332 came with a WIX cartridge-style side mounted full flow filter hanging off a frame support on driver's side.  Recently equipped with steel braided AN style hose/fittings.  It came with high pressure certified rubber hoses with clamps. No extra sump and no extra oil cooler.  Seems to work fine. Easy-peasy to change oil and filter.  I have removed and inspected and replaced the stock oil strainer once, just because.  The message was: nothing to see here.  I also had a skid plate made that bolts to the collector at the end of my A1 Sidewinder exhaust system, since I was occasionally scraping said collector on the pavement.  The angled approach to dippy entrances is the key to success as Gordon points out.

@Sacto Mitch posted:

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Danny, agree. That's what I've got, sort of. It's a CB thinline sump that didn't come with the central drain plug, but that we added a drain plug to later. Works a treat. No need to touch the eight nuts or washers when changing oil.

But the OP is suggesting installing something like this (this is the CB thinline version), with a filter inside the sump:

CBFilterSump



Even if you add a drainplug, there's no way to change the filter without pulling all of the acorn nuts and washers. And the filter looks tiny compared to a regular one, so can't be doing as good a job.

Nother thing: wouldn't the oil pump be pulling against an increasingly restricted inlet as the filter loads up with dirt?

For the 'convenience' of not installing a normal filter, you seem to have added some major headaches down the road.

Am I missing something? Discuss.

.

That ENTIRE arrangement in the picture above was on my engine when I got it. It was also full-flowed and REQUIRED an external fan. The 911 fan/shroud combo has no room for a cooler under it, so aftermarket/external is the only way to go.

Do you see the piece next to the spring in the foreground of the strainer/filter? That is a very lightly loaded spring/ball check valve IN CASE the filter is clogged. So, your engine won't starve of oil, it will just suck dirty oil. But, for any of it to work as intended, the entire sump needs to be full of oil AT ALL TIMES. Don't run your oil level low like some do if you have this filter/sump. Please.

It was also REQUIRED by my engine builder for warranty that I use an external filter. So that's what I did.

At the first change I noted that screen thing in there and cleaned it. After a few changes I decided that it was stupid to deal with and stupid to have two filters. After all, 100% of the oil goes through the external fine-filtering Wix. No need for a screen of any kind in the sump.

It is a pain in the butt to stack all those parts up, and hold all that in place while you line up a gasket, the plate, and then try to thread a couple nuts on.

I HATED changing the oil. So, I JB-welded a pickup tube extension on, securing it with a hose clamp, and making a piece that exerted spring pressure upwards on the pickup extension so it was impossible for it to slide down or come off.

At the same time, I milled a flat area where it says Claudes Buggies and drilled and tapped that for a drain plug.

Boy, did oil changes become much easier. And I slept better too.

Then I removed the whole darn thing and installed the dry sump system.

Last edited by DannyP

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