Hey Guy,
I have been battling oil leaking on to the exhaust pipes for years. I thought It was coming from the valve covers. I have tried every type of gasket and the bails are super tight. Do these images look like the leaks are from the covers? I have jacked the car up while running and can not see the actual drips.
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Your pictures are not the best, but perhaps your push-rod tubes are leaking.
Jason
Based on the angles I would say it is coming from the end of the pushrod tube on the valve cover side of the tube. And I say that because oil has leaked around both sides of the exhaust. If the leaking was on just the outboard side of the J-tube I'd say it MIGHT be from the valve cover.
Another way to find it is to use an oil leak dye and run the engine for a bit. Then use a UV light and it'll show where the leak is coming from.
PKDFW
thanks that is a great idea. I will also try to take a better picture of area around the pushrod tube tomorrow.
Yup. Pushrod end seals.
Go for the silicon seal version and you have your choice of either spring loaded or threaded-expanding pushrods.
The Spring-Thingie:
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/psaprt.htm
And the threaded thingie:
https://socalautoparts.com/pro...adjustable-threaded/
I am currently running the threaded thingies and they seem to be OK, but my engineer mind tells me that the spring version should seal bettah, longah. I have not run the spring loaded version, but have heard good things about them, so either one will work, just get the silicon end seals (That's important).
BTW: You can change pushrod tubes without pulling the engine. Remove the valve covers, then the rocker arm assembly (it comes out as a unit) then the pushrods. Pay attention to the order when taking the pushrods out and lay them aside in order, as well as any spacers under the rocker arm mounts and remember what they were to put them back as they were.
Lay everything out in order so they go back from whence they came. Once the pushrods are out, just grab the old pushrod tubes with a pair of Channel Lock Pliers, give them a horizontal twist and they come right out. Thoroughly clean the places where the pushrod tube seals push against the engine case.
Follow the instructions to install the new tubes (it's easy), then replace the push rods, replace the rocker arm assembly and make SURE you torque the rocker shaft nuts to the proper torque (see your Bentley's or Chilton's Service Book).
Then, do a complete valve adjustment, replace the valve covers with new gaskets and you're done and can celebrate with a Yuengling beer (or anything better than that).
And no, "Bud Light" is NOT better than Yuengling - They're both terrible American excuses for beer. There...... I've said it.
Here's a write-up I did when I replaced mine. There are some additional helpful tips on getting the new ones into place.
The current push rod tubes in the car are the big mouth two piece spring loaded. I have a set of CBP stainless one piece tubes in a box. I ordered some oil leak dye that will arrive on Sunday. In mean time I might jack up the car a look closer at the tube seals.
The white silicone seals are the only ones that actually seal. But only when installed DRY and only if 100% seated concentrically.
The only spring-loaded tubes I have found that don't leak are the JayCee "guaranteed-no-leak" tubes. The springs are quite strong, it is difficult(but not impossible) to get them 100% centered. Everything must be hospital clean and dry.
It is also very possible that the head studs inside the valve covers are leaking. I put a little RTV on both sides of the big washer and a little on the head stud threads where the nut goes down to. The more I look at it the more I think this is your problem, Bobby. Look hard at the bottom of the heads where the lower studs come through.
Danny,
I think you are right. The oil is leaking down the head stud and dripping on the exhaust. I just put some dye in the oil and am waiting to see the trace.
@DannyP posted:The white silicone seals are the only ones that actually seal. But only when installed DRY and only if 100% seated concentrically.
The only spring-loaded tubes I have found that don't leak are the JayCee "guaranteed-no-leak" tubes. The springs are quite strong, it is difficult(but not impossible) to get them 100% centered. Everything must be hospital clean and dry.
It is also very possible that the head studs inside the valve covers are leaking. I put a little RTV on both sides of the big washer and a little on the head stud threads where the nut goes down to. The more I look at it the more I think this is your problem, Bobby. Look hard at the bottom of the heads where the lower studs come through.
Spot on; this is a great thing to do on your engine builds and a lot of people overlook this.
