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Those that have been lucky enough to have the opportunity to replace rear spring plate/torsion bar grommets- what have you used for lubricant? I think VW specs talc powder, but I think I remember someone using something far better. Unfortunately I didn't write it down. Thanks in advance. Al

"older Intermeccanica Speedster (still under wraps in the garage) a pic wouldn't show much,what with all the junk piled on it..."

On a lifelong mission (much to my wife's dismay) to prove that immaturity is forever!

"Adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere."- Colin Chapman

Last edited by ALB
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I was under the impression that grease  softened the rubber bushings; that's why VW used talcum. No?

And yes, Bob, slowly preparing transaxle parts for re-assembly. Pics at 11 (I'm not promising which 11; when I'm ready...). Not promising when it'll be on the road either, but you never know. I will tell you this- Yesterday I just got back my pair of 15x6 Fuchs from Green's automotive (the local wheel widening specialist) and they're now 7's. The inch was added to the inside. Along with some type 3 rear drums (I know, discs are cooler and better, but I got them for the right price!) and narrowed irs arms, it looks like 205/60's might just fit inside quite nicely...

Hi Al there is an imprtant reason, why VW specs only talk about using talkum powder!

the movement should stay inside of the rubber. The talkum powder should only help you to mount the whole thing easier.

The whole rubber part shouldn't move in the housing, thats why there shouldn't be any other lubicant. 

I know, some people use vaseline or someithing like that but thats not how it should be, it should be mounted "dry"

Mounted dry, it will give you a way more stability while drivig.

and by the way squiak sounds you will also not have if you mount only with talkum.




Last edited by Jan Peter Stahl

Different types of rubber will have different resistances to various chemicals. It's the reason you want to use silicone grease for polyurethane bushings as it won't attack the rubber. And why you don't use silicone hose for gasoline/oil lines.

But for standard rubber bushings, grease is not appropriate for this application because the rubber is meant to grip tightly to the outside housing and the trailing arm. As the trailing arm moves, the rubber itself twists to allow movement between the parts. If you add (compatible) grease and the trailing arm starts spinning inside the rubber, it'll wear away the rubber bushing prematurely.

I have done a couple of sets and used talcum powder each time.  It works like a charm.  I have even disassembled one set for some modifications and everything looked good.  

As mentioned above, you don't want the rubber to move.  It should grip to the housing and arm. The rubber bushing deflects torsionally in order to allow the arms to move.  You are not providing a permanent lubrication for movement, only using the talcum powder for assembly.  

Also...use rubber grommets, not the red polyurethane.  The red ones won't deflect and the arms just rotate inside the bushings. 

Last edited by James

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