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Susan--you are on the right track---these devices will amaze you with the improved ride and cornering you wil have. My car rides like it was on rails and it's just as smooth a ride as it always was.

For the front I used the EMPI Sway Bar which needed zero modifications, cutting or welding----just bolt that bad boy on. The price was $73.00 and Empi uses 4 part numbers---all for tye same item; 9594, 9595, 9596 and 9600. The trick I learned on this forum for installing is to get a large pair of channel lock pliers (REAL large) to use to squeeze the clamps together to get the nut started onto the bolt.

For the back I used the camber compensator from C. B> Performance, part # 2819 fot $54.95. This is a real safety improvement and will keep your wheels "straight" going around corners rather than the familiar "VW wheel slant" which can easily cause a flip going around corners----shivver!!

Good luck with your car. Improving them through these items makes a great difference in enjoyment. ---Jack
It would be interesting to see pictures of Jack's installation because he didn't have to notch the bumper brackets.

I bought the same bar Jack used and have been hoping I too would be able to install it without modifying the bumper brackets. I haven't tried yet.

I recently installed drop spindles. This will change the angle of the trailing arms for a given ride height. This will probably make it less likely that I can avoid bumper bracket modification.
Rich---I have been away---I drove my Cadilac to Miami and gave it to my brother---I just got home and of course the first order of business upon my return was checking out the new posts on this great site.

Rich's photos are exactly what I would be posting for my installation.

This requires zero cutting, welding, modification or anything beyound attaching the bar. Maybe it is better designed than the other brands or whatever, but it attaches easily without any mods and works like a champ. Of all the stuff I have done to my Speedster this is the #1 best thing. It is actually a huge safety feature and makes the car as stable as any top of the line sports car available.

Get with it! Get yerself one and install it per the simple instructions supplied. I do wish I had known the secret to an easy installation and that is that you need to use the largest channel lock pliers you can find to squeeze the whatchamacallet in order to get the nut started on the bolt. (Sorry about the technical terms.)

Skimming through this topic, I assume that you know that there are 2 versions of this swaybar.
One for lowered beams, and One for Not-lowered beams.
The ones in my photos are of the one for lowered ball joint beams.
Notice how the front of it has an upward bend to add ground clearance.
The Speedster in my photos are of a ball joint front end with lowered spindles and lowered beam.
The photos show the modifications I used to clear the typical front bumper brackets.



Images (2)
  • 19MM Lowered beam SwayAway Bar
  • 1clearance_BumperBrace

Ask and you shall receive! Here are some photos of my 2003 VS with the new anti-sway bar installed. I did no cutting, welding or any other modifications. When installing, you will want to have the front wheels on ramps putting the weight of the car on the suspension to keep everything as flat as possible. I used a large C-clamp to compress the bushing clamps far enough to get the nuts started.

Good luck, Rich


Images (3)
  • DSC00319
  • DSC00320
  • DSC00322
I've had both types of anti-sway bars on the same JPS chassis. The chassis was lowered via beam adjusters only. The sway bar for a lowered chassis required a very deep cut in the front bumper brackets (4 or 5 inches). The sway bar for a standard chassis also fits just fine, but it also required a notch in the front bumper brackets of about one inch.

Ground clearance is the same for either sway bar if installed correctly.

I've had several low cars in the past and always hated hitting speed bumps with my exhaust, power brake booster, front sheet metal, etc. I think I'll opt for the tie rod end flip kit to see if that helps the steering. Since I installed the second set of caster shims it is a bit better at higher speeds but is harder to turn at low speeds. Fare trade off though.
Well, Rich, I agree about the lowering. If you aren't going to listen to people's advice, why bother asking the questions?

I would lower it at least 2-3", then I'll bet the problem will go away, and the back is too high too. Don't lower it into the weeds, but please, it's a sports car!
Thanks Rich. I bet they are from a domestic car with that offset, so the options are endless. I found there are only two options for the metric patterns and was hoping yours was one of them.

As to the comments posted. It does look like your wheelbase is a bit affected by your ride height (rear) if you have a IRS car then you might get a inch or so back and that would help the high speed stability.

In my life I have found that everyone has an opinion, some good, some not so good. Some I agree with and some I don't. I ask questions to obtain different points of view. I then consider those viewpoints and make my own decision. I do appreciate the input/advice but I don't necessarily feel obliged to follow it. For you, a lowered car is what you want, me...not so much.
Thanks, Rich
Rich, I think you misunderstand me. I don't really care what height your car rides at aesthetically, but I think the fact that it is so high IS the problem. What I am saying is surely there is a compromise between dragging ass and a rally car that offers a good ride AND handling. As they say, EVERYTHING in life is a compromise.

I would lower the car if I knew it would help. On this site and others, it seems that I read one post that says do this and another that says to do the opposite. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has had a similar problem that WAS corrected by lowering.

What I don't want to do is go through the drill only to find that it did nothing or worse, caused other issues such as interference with the anti-sway bar I just put on.
Thanks again for your input, I really do appreciate it.


My factory built VS 2007 Superwide is just under 8 inches to the floor. How many miles do you have on your car. My car sits a tad lower now, I have put 5000 miles on it. You should be able to go lower like stated. I have added a larger motor with a super deep sump and A-1 headers. The only thing that scraps on occasion is the muffler.


Images (2)
  • Sandy-356 07-26-09
  • A-1 Headers
How about a consensus measurment? What is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the body on your car at the door handle? My problem with ride heighth is a 1/4 mile long gravel drive. Lowering it turns me into a plow. I'm at 8" and it does seem to float a little at 70 mph plus not bad though. I am curious what "slammed" really is photographs can decieve.

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