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Look inside of the front trunk (we call it a "Frunk") to see if there is a Manufacturer's Certificate plate.  It's a small metal label, usually gold-colored and about the size of a business card.  If it's not there, try looking in the door jambs.

Don't be surprised if you don't find one - Many home builders did not bother to install the label at all - It took me 20 years to get around to it!  Even that won't give you a true build date, just a very rough guestimated date of the build of the body, alone, based on the sales order number stamped on the plate.  Finish date of the car will probably be unknown unless you have some dated receipts that came with the car.  Back on the body, CMC built them roughly from 1980-ish to around 1995 when they declared bankruptcy.

I have insured my CMC "Californian" Widebody with Hagerty as a 1957 Porsche 356 Replica for about ten years now.  It usually costs, in Massachusetts, under $500/year, unlimited mileage, with a good record.  Others use Grundy with similar rates.  Both can have some restrictions so talk to a human there to sort that all out before you commit.  

Maybe some of our other members from Pennsylvania can give you more insurance insight.  You can also find other members near you by using the "members" tab at the top of this page, ask for a map and give it your zip code.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Most mainstream insurance companies (Progressive, State Farm and others that advertise on TV) really don't understand replicas, see them as a minor market and really don't want to insure them so they often quote astronomical rates to chase you away.  Talk to the folks at Hagerty or Grundy and you should do much better.

What is the number on the CMC plate?  The first 1 or 2 letters typically designate the model and the following numbers are typically the Sales Order Number.  That's the closest thing to a serial number you're gonna get and honestly, it bears little relation to when it was built.

Lots more info on here, like this thread:

You might also be able to get an amended title for it from the PA DMV if you explain the circumstances to the Penn. Titling office.  Get their phone help number online or call your local DMV, ask for someone who knows titling issues, tell them what you're trying to do and see if they will give you a contact name at the main Titling office.  Local offices don't see enough of these weird cases to know what to do with them (and typically screw things up).

Welcome to the madness, Jerry! When I was doing my rebuild, I researched the title laws in Hawaii and worked with the DMV to get a corrected title issued (Porsche, but with a Street Rod Replica model). It took quite a while to get everything straight. Maybe some of our PA members can share how theirs are titled. In the long run, you put the title in a folder and don't look at it again.

I second Gordon's suggestion about talking to Hagerty, Grundy, etc. I'd think you can get a better deal from them.

Here's an idea, do a careful cut using a sharp box cutter on three sides with the opening towards the back of the car. Make the open end cut about 6.5" or 7" behind the parking brake.

Flip the carpet up to verify the VIN. After the title excitement is over, glue down some Velcro to secure the back and sides (I'd probably just do double sided carpet tape instead since it very rarely needs to be viewed).

@Jerry Wolfe posted:

We are in Pa. and I was surprised to see Porsche on the title.  I don't know that i can change that nomenclature.

I don’t know PA but NV DMV had a special office (two guys) who dealt with VIN/Title issues. I had to take the 968 there when I first registered it in NV because it’s VIN started with WPOC and “O” and “Z” are not used in VINs due to their similarity to 0 and 2.  1992 was early in that convention in Europe. The result was that my bar code would read an error at the emissions station and I had to take it to the special office guys and have my title changed to WP0C, then entered manually.

Kinda strange as I never had issues registering it in CO and Utah prior to that.  

That's because it is a CMC !!!!!!!!!

Nothing fits the first time, nothing is straight and nothing is easy to fix.  

BUT, that is one rugged and quite thick body lay-up.  The only place where CMCs had stress cracks was between the frunk and the headlights and if the forward body support was installed by the builder (a bracket on top of the front suspension beam, holding up the nose about 10" forward of the front edge of the gas tank), and the front inner fender walls were 'glassed in,  those cracks won't exist.

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