Looking for a stock length shift rod.. Paypal ready! Thanks!
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Looking for a stock length shift rod.. Paypal ready! Thanks!
You can also make your own:
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/AC710002L.html
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/AC711995.html
Depending on how your e-brake tubes are located in the tunnel, you may need to put a slight bend in the rod to avoid hitting them. Otherwise there may not be enough space for the coupler to line up with the trans nosecone properly. You can see this bend in a stock shift rod, but I doubt that the item above has it. You could use a stock one like this: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-111-711-155-G but you'd have to cut and sleeve the front half to shorten it (to keep the bend in the right spot) and then you must get the shifter cup and bolt hole perpendicular the first time.
Or you could buy that universal rod, use the front half of it, the back half of your old rod and splice them together to the length you need.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/AC710002L.html
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/AC711995.html
Depending on how your e-brake tubes are located in the tunnel, you may need to put a slight bend in the rod to avoid hitting them. Otherwise there may not be enough space for the coupler to line up with the trans nosecone properly. You can see this bend in a stock shift rod, but I doubt that the item above has it. You could use a stock one like this: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-111-711-155-G but you'd have to cut and sleeve the front half to shorten it (to keep the bend in the right spot) and then you must get the shifter cup and bolt hole perpendicular the first time.
Or you could buy that universal rod, use the front half of it, the back half of your old rod and splice them together to the length you need.
Kieth,
Go for the universal one.
When you cut it down, use a smaller dia. tube to make the back half. That makes it easier to put it through the shift bushing when you install.(leave enough of the original dia. front half length to reach through the shift bushing.)
On the back half that you made out of smaller dia. tubing use one of those universal ends that lets you set the angle of the shift coupler.
Oh yeah, when you weld the universal end to your tube make sure the flats of the universal end will be in a positon that you can get a wrench on after the completed tube is installed in the frame.
My 2 cents,
Greg
Go for the universal one.
When you cut it down, use a smaller dia. tube to make the back half. That makes it easier to put it through the shift bushing when you install.(leave enough of the original dia. front half length to reach through the shift bushing.)
On the back half that you made out of smaller dia. tubing use one of those universal ends that lets you set the angle of the shift coupler.
Oh yeah, when you weld the universal end to your tube make sure the flats of the universal end will be in a positon that you can get a wrench on after the completed tube is installed in the frame.
My 2 cents,
Greg
Or you can just lengthen your existing rod. Cut the back end off with enough inside length (~1 inch) to insert a sleeve on both sides. Measure the inside diameter of the tube to find the outside diameter size sleeve you need and go to www.onlinemetals.com and buy a 10-12" random length in the closest diameter you can find (but no larger) of A36 hot roll round bar or A513 cold roll DOM tube for under $3. Weld it in to length. You'll have to make sure the edges of the welded spots are smooth/chamfered since the diameter changes it will make it harder to slide through the hanger bushing.
I want to keep the rod that is in it... I bought that cip1, and will cut it down. The shift rod cup that came in my car was dry as a bone and rusty dusty... So, maybe a new rod/cup will help tighten up the whole setup.