How do you make it rain in California?... buy a speedster.

 

It never dawned on me that those little Setrab oil cooling radiators were that expensive...My VS has two, each with a fan, tucked up under the rear of the wheel wells...and other than once checking the electrical connections I've never given them a second thought.

 

In fact, I've never heard the fans working, but the oil has never read above 180 degrees. Oil temp in the sump is checked with an instant reading  digital kitchen meat thermometer...Seven dollars at Walmart.

Ted:

 

Remember that when the engine is running there is quite a lot of air turbulance in the crankcase from all of the moving parts in there.  When you remove the oil filler cap you should see/feel a rapid series of pulsations (4 each second or so at idle) and, overall, it should have a very slight positive pressure - it's not gonna blow your hand off if you put your palm over the opening, but you should feel a wee bit of pressure and pulsing on your palm.  When you remove your palm it should not give a big blast like doing the same to the end of a tailpipe.

 

On the oil, every engine I have ever rebuilt (and everyone else, too, for that matter) will quickly wear in the crankshaft bearings and polish the cylinder walls with the rings.  That's all part of the "break-in process And happens over the first 1,000 or so miles.  This initial wear deposits metal dust in the oil.  THAT is what you're seeing in the first three oil changes during break-in.  I always change the oil at 100, 300 and 1,000 miles because that's what I was told to do when I was a kid.  Each of those changes will show decreasing amounts of dust shimmer until somewhere around 3,000 miles or so (the last break-in change and then repeat every 3,000) it should have finally finished the break-in process and you're good to go.

 

This sound like what you're seeing??

 

and you may have stated this earlier and I missed it, but how many miles are on this engine??

Every V-8 I've built, or had built, 'break-in' oil was recommended for the first 100mi. or so, never keeping the engine at a constant rpm, then change the oil to whatever you plan on using... in 300mi. change it again. Somewhere around the 1,000mi mark or in 6mos if the car is not run often change once again. Then just do routine oil changes, you really need to pay attention to the oil especially if the vehicle sits for long periods of time between use. I change oil in all our 'toy' cars about every 6 months. Been doing this for years and it seems to work.

 

If a car is not run very often you can build up condensation in the block very quickly depending upon your climate.

Hey Gang, the motor has less than 1000 miles. I called the builder and asked a few questions. Turns out it was a little more than 'just broken in'. He built it, the buyer went a different way, so he broke it in , then put it in a bug and drove from Napa to Sacramento and back. Then he pulled it and sold me the long block. I had a few choice words after he changed bluish story. Regardless, it's most likely just breaking in. At Least that is what I'm hoping.

I pulled the crank pulley today. Found that sand seal had spun in the case. The oil leak was from between Tue case and the seal. I replaced it with one which was .01 larger. I put a little assembly lube on the crank pulley neck.

I'll check the valves tomorrow morning. I should go pull the valves covers and ready them for new gaskets so the goo can dry overnight.

Valves are all good. Power is good. Oil splash is nil.

I changed out the spun seal and took her for a drive this morning. Just a small shake down cruze. Got the oil good and warm and ran it through the paces. Brought her home and parked in the garage over a sheet of butcher paper.  Not a single drop of oil.

I think I finally skinned this one. Phew!!!

What's next? Front end alignment and then I'll switch over to the Tecno's.

Ted;

 

Is this on a new oil change?

 

Art

Yup. All new oil. New oil filter, etc.

It's been a while since I've done any improvements to the speedster. Today I decided I needed to address the gap between the rear subframe and the body. No sense in worrying about sealing the engine compartment if that rear gap is still wide open. I was always worried that  hot air off the exhaust could boil up into the engine compartment from that 3" gap between the rear body and the boxed subframe.

I made a few cardboard templates and then went to town with some aluminum and pop rivets. 76 rivets and $30.00 of aluminum later. Now I can get an extra H seal and close 'er up back there.

Not bad for a few hours work 'eh? Maybe I'll paint it black.

Lookin' really good, Ted! For the next 2-3 valve adjustments, record how much each valve moves; if 2 valves (opposite sides, sharing a cam lobe) are requiring more adjustment than the others, then you know something's up. Until then, have fun! Al

Ted, that looks really good! From the crispness of the 'L' bends I take it you have a sheet metal break? or at least access to one.

 

I've thought of doing the same thing, obtaining the aluminum sheet, etc is easy but no one I know has a portable break to make the bends that I could borrow for awhile. I've tried doing it with wood blocks ,etc. yet it just doesn't come out looking as good as using a break.

Just a thought here, maybe one of your local aluminum gutter installers wouldn't mind you using their brake either on the job site or after hours.

I wish I had a break! That is all cut and riveted with a 1/16th thcick 90 degree L bracket at each bend. I'm contemplating sweating in some alumabond on the joints. Not sure it's necessary. I popped a 1/8 rivet every two inches. Should be good. I'm going to back parts of it with light weight dynamat to help keep the hot side hot and the cool side cool. 

Ted

hot side hot and cool side cool is the best, you vcan do for your air cooled engine. May be more important than an aditional cooler, so thumbs up for your work!

I'm told Dynamat is no good for exterior use.  I've been steered to Lizard Skin if it's out in the elements, what ever that is.  Have yet to try it.  Also, don't let it get too hot; is exhaust close to the metal here??

what is this... Lizard Skin?

 

The exhaust isn't too close. There is already a fiberglass sheet that seals up the lower portion (around the motor / next to the engine tins. The aluminum is just the 'second layer' of protection around the back end there. The upper shelf is maybe.. 8-10" from the exhaust? Possibly more? Good call tho'.  I'd hate to clean THAT mess up.

 

Ted

Ted, DO NOT use Dynamat in this situation it is a sound deadener not a heat barrier...It will melt! then you'll have a real mess. As Frazoo said use Lizard Skin heat barrier or similar. You want something that will reflect heat and prevent heat intrusion...Dynamat will not cut it!

 

TED :    I heard that Terry Nuckles,  has a friend that has a cousin that has a best friend  who has a NASA connection  See if they have any shuttle tiles left over...   

 

Talking heat protection    THERE YA GO!!   by the way  cant wait to see the beast!!

 

Tebs

http://www.lizardskin.com/

Ted:

 

I had the same fear of hot air incursion so I made almost exactly the same thing out of a single piece of metal, but I also made up an el-cheapo press brake with a couple of pieces of hinged hardwood to make the bends.  

 

Mine covers the rear area almost the same - it sits on top of the rear of the horse-shoe shaped rear frame member and rests on top of the rear engine tin with enough give to allow for engine rocking and is sealed along the engine tin with weatherstrip tape.  

 

It kips up at each end (left/right) to close up a hole on each side.  It is made of HVAC galvanized sheet metal and held to the frame with 10-32 screws every foot or so.  I sealed it along the inside of the body with a thick piece of closed-cell foam tape (used for storm door weatherstrip) with a simple knife-cut halfway through and it's then pressed onto the rear of the metal piece to seal it.  The end result is a close approximation of what Porsche had on the 356's (as is yours, now).

 

I wouldn't get too crazy about double insulating or double layering over the exhaust pipes/muffler and all that - that simple piece of sheetmetal, along with good sealing around all of the engine tins, should really do the trick for you.

 

gn 

Hey Gordon,

 

Thanks for the info.  I will follow suit. No reason to go overboard. The car has had fiberglass under the horseshoe and around the engine tin. This second 'skin' of aluminum should be just enough to deflect most of the heat downward. (That's the plan/hope)

 

Thanks again for the info. I appreciate it. It's good to know that great minds think alike.

Ted

 

Ted - If you have any left over!

 

Ha! I restored (rebuilt from the ground up) a 1955 tear drop trailer shortly before diving into this madness. It was a labor of love. Most of my skills with the polish and wax come from polishing that 4x8 trailer!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Never.again.

Ted

 

 

 

Sweet project Ted!

Ted, the more we get to know you...YOU ARE THE MAN!

Thanks!  I enjoy working on stuff. It's a change from my 'day job'. I kind of learn as I go. Videos and YouTube help. Most of the 'knowledge' comes from forums just like this one.

 

Ted

Ted,

 

I wonder if you ever saw the PBS special show on old trailers.  It was/is extremely interesting, and goes into the whole business of trailers that were quite the thing, back in the day.  They had several of the very small "tear-drop" types shown, and these were especially cool for how much was packed into such a small space.  I think there was one that two people could sleep in -- so long as they were not claustrophobic.

 

Your little wagon here is outstanding.  Use it much??  While maybe not as severe as the Speedster madness, I think the little and old trailer people around the country are probably about as afflicted.

 

And, I'll bet it would go easily behind the Speedster, and wouldn't that be The Bomb??!!

Yup! Saw that show. Great show. Ours was a 1955 "Benroy". They made about 400 of them (give or take) before they were sold to a larger company. I tried to keep the design true to the originals. The exterior was 100% authentic. Interior, ours slept two, had a fully galley, and some storage for your camping gear.

 

I looked around for some internal shots, but couldn't locate any online. The interior was clear heart maple and cherry. The bed was 'full' sized.  Three cabinets across the back (your feet/legs slid under them. You had enough room to rollover/lay on your side/etc. There were two over your head cabinets in the front. They were small, but had enough room to store some clothes, your devices, papers, etc. All cabinets had vintage pull handles, etc.  I wired up LED reading lights, some overhead lights, 12V chargers, 12V outlets, USB outlests, etc. I installed killer 6 speed fan (fwd/reverse).  The 12v battery minder was great. you could plug it in and convert shore power to 12v. You could also plug in the trailer when not in use and the minder would only charge when necessary. The battery was a  yellow top and we could be 'off power' for a week. Great trailer for two people. 

 

Anyway - great trailer. The kids loved it. We used it a few times, but we needed something bigger that the whole family could enjoy. I sold the trailer and bought a speedster.

 

Ted

Aw, too bad you had to let that trailer go.  I wanted to see it hooked up to the Speedster.  Madness squared!

Ohh! That would have been sweet. What's the 'tongue weight' of a speedster bumper?  

 

I bet I could whip something up for 'weekend' trips.

Hey Ted, can I borrow you for about a week?

 

Looks good, nice work!

Oh my... The SLO event is this coming weekend!? I'd better get busy!!

What the h3ll (don't want to offend the google censors now) are you doing now Ted??

I have been color sanding my way around the car. Working on a panel here and a panel there. The hood and drivers front fender were all I had left to do.  The orange peel was exceptionally bad around the headlights and hood.

All sanded and two passes with the wool cutting pads are done. I'll wrap up the final three passes tomorrow.

LOL LOL TED...  your not trying to steal my thunder with this hoaky sanding business are you?

 

DID YOU NOT SEE MY CAR? 

 

tebs...

Nah, that's aaaaaaalllllllllll you bruh!  I'm just trying to make this ole CMC look respectable. You never know when or where the bridesmades might show up!

NOW THAT'S WHAT I'M TALIKING ABOUT!!  BRIDESMAIDS!! 

 

By the way   your car looks AWESOME cant wait to see that beast...

 

tebs

Did someone say 'Bridesmaids'?

 

Musbjim & GERD photo-bomb bridesmaid pic during SOC winery tour. 

 

HAHAHA!  

Those may have been some of the same ladies who witnessed the WereRaccoon try to attack me / boost my car last year. 

 

Artist rendering below:

Still need to clean the wheels and tires (thanks Marty!)