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Anthony posted:

FYI

Clutch pedal shaft 

the new shaft you purchased are nice  I use a double shear bracket step up.  The reason for my post is to warn you that most likely you have a aftermarket pedal assembly - meaning an "empi part"  and they are not made to factory specs  they have there own shaft diamension.  On Mitch's pedal assembly I had to get one custom made to fit the pedal assembly. Also when you remove the pedal assembly to change the clutch cross shaft you may also want to box the clutch pedal.. Call me and I will explain.  Or send it up.

regarding your trans gearing, keep in mind my answers to your questions of gearing and parts are from my experience around having driven them with several gear combos. I have ran some other combos that were from great stop light to stoplight and the compromise was the gap to fifth gear.  Your tire size is an important factor. I have a tall rear tire and with your shorter tire the gear combo changes slightly. Again, you will see the difference in the gearing between fourth and fifth up shifting and downshifting relating to the tire size. Think about it!  Your cuising along at 65+- and want to pass someone or you want to speed up do to a slight hill. That fourth gear ratio is important.  Your driving 152 towards Watsonville and in either third or fourth gear thru the turns moving pretty good and come to a tight corner and drop down to third or second. This is where those gear combos make the difference. Now think of those same situations with your four speed box. You got it?  You can't drive it like you really want to.  I driven 17 up and down in my 63 loaded with a few vangan trans in the car in fourth gear passing several bmws and honda, Toyotas because of the gearing combos.. Your trans builder or experienced berg five users are the only ones you may give you recommendations!

then once you finally get it in the car and drive it. You will drive it harder on the twistys and fine you need good brakes you slow you down quicker also.. I know  I had a few close calls driving from auburn to placervile having to brake hard to avoid going down the canyon because your confidence becomes higher which relate to faster corner speeds. Someday I will up grade to the CSP brakes sitting in the box on the floor of the old shop......excuse me for babbling.

 

 

;

 

Hey Buddy,

I took your suggestions to heart. Your words rang true. Don't over think it. If I end up building this, I will go with what you suggested. It looked great on paper. The chart looked spot on and fun as hell.  Thank you for being a solid straight shooter.  As this s storm blew up, it reminded me of our first talk when you were talking to me about my 4 speed. You've always been so patient and legit. I appreciate it. I wish you were a transmission builder.

Regarding the clutch rod, what's a double shear bracket?! I had the arm tig welded by Kings Muffler here in town. Flipped the owner a $20.00 and he welded it up rock solid. I really like the idea of boxing the pedal. That's brilliant.  For those who are lost... the clutch pedal arm is shaped like a backwards C. Boxing it in would involve welding a plate on the arm to make that backwards C into a closed 'box'. In this case the finished arm would be like a D. This would give the arm tons of strength. It won't twist.  The new shift rod fit like a glove. There was no play at all. Like.a.glove. Funny thing is that now I'm thinking about upgrading to a juice clutch.

What a week...

Ted,

I hate to bring up the past but as I was perusing today's posts I somehow got sidetracked, I don't know how, squirrel! I came across some posts related to one of Stan's permutations of his monster Type 1 from June of 2014. In that post Stan was wondering why he got so caught up in the insane modifications to his engine, and he wrote that Mrs. Stan was calling it quits to his mutation and he quipped that he wondered if the time he had invested in his dual coil, twin-plugged monster was worth it and you wrote AND I quote, "Keep at it. Any project worth while takes time." I bring this up not to shame you but to suggest that you follow your own advice and keep at it. I hate to see you throw in the towel on this one just because you went over a speed bump that was bigger than you anticipated and bottomed out your sump. Pu the idea aside for a minute, okay, but don't quit. You wanted the five speed for a reason. That reason is still there and you should seek to achieve it.

Last edited by Robert M
TRP posted:
Anthony posted:

FYI

Clutch pedal shaft 

the new shaft you purchased are nice  I use a double shear bracket step up.  The reason for my post is to warn you that most likely you have a aftermarket pedal assembly - meaning an "empi part"  and they are not made to factory specs  they have there own shaft diamension.  On Mitch's pedal assembly I had to get one custom made to fit the pedal assembly. Also when you remove the pedal assembly to change the clutch cross shaft you may also want to box the clutch pedal.. Call me and I will explain.  Or send it up.

regarding your trans gearing, keep in mind my answers to your questions of gearing and parts are from my experience around having driven them with several gear combos. I have ran some other combos that were from great stop light to stoplight and the compromise was the gap to fifth gear.  Your tire size is an important factor. I have a tall rear tire and with your shorter tire the gear combo changes slightly. Again, you will see the difference in the gearing between fourth and fifth up shifting and downshifting relating to the tire size. Think about it!  Your cuising along at 65+- and want to pass someone or you want to speed up do to a slight hill. That fourth gear ratio is important.  Your driving 152 towards Watsonville and in either third or fourth gear thru the turns moving pretty good and come to a tight corner and drop down to third or second. This is where those gear combos make the difference. Now think of those same situations with your four speed box. You got it?  You can't drive it like you really want to.  I driven 17 up and down in my 63 loaded with a few vangan trans in the car in fourth gear passing several bmws and honda, Toyotas because of the gearing combos.. Your trans builder or experienced berg five users are the only ones you may give you recommendations!

then once you finally get it in the car and drive it. You will drive it harder on the twistys and fine you need good brakes you slow you down quicker also.. I know  I had a few close calls driving from auburn to placervile having to brake hard to avoid going down the canyon because your confidence becomes higher which relate to faster corner speeds. Someday I will up grade to the CSP brakes sitting in the box on the floor of the old shop......excuse me for babbling.

 

 

;

 

Hey Buddy,

I took your suggestions to heart. Your words rang true. Don't over think it. If I end up building this, I will go with what you suggested. It looked great on paper. The chart looked spot on and fun as hell.  Thank you for being a solid straight shooter.  As this s storm blew up, it reminded me of our first talk when you were talking to me about my 4 speed. You've always been so patient and legit. I appreciate it. I wish you were a transmission builder.

Regarding the clutch rod, what's a double shear bracket?! I had the arm tig welded by Kings Muffler here in town. Flipped the owner a $20.00 and he welded it up rock solid. I really like the idea of boxing the pedal. That's brilliant.  For those who are lost... the clutch pedal arm is shaped like a backwards C. Boxing it in would involve welding a plate on the arm to make that backwards C into a closed 'box'. In this case the finished arm would be like a D. This would give the arm tons of strength. It won't twist.  The new shift rod fit like a glove. There was no play at all. Like.a.glove. Funny thing is that now I'm thinking about upgrading to a juice clutch.

What a week...

Thanks for the kind words. Stay with the cable set up.  A hyd clutch involves patience routing the steel line, new pedal, mounting the salve cylinder and master cylinder set up, then when you fit the clutch master cylinder your going to want to up grade the existing brake master to a complete tilton or CNC pedal assembly.. You find yourself bitching that nothing "just bolts in" ......keep it simple!  If you go that route buy a spare salve cylinder because you will need it. 

You know how I feel about this, Ted; let it sit for a bit. And remember, a guy in a '55 cheby burning it's tires off is just annoying;  a Speedster, otoh, that is fast enough to shame most of the fart can ricers around and the new Mustang/Camaro/Challenger crowd (and that '55) is a wondreous(sp?) and beautiful thing...

I get it. I'm over it right now. After 6 months with Berg and now this nonsense, I'm just going to shelve it for a bit. There are a few people who reached out to me here and on the Samba with suggestions. To keep this in perspective, the list of people who can build a kick ass 5 speed without the consternation is a quite long.  I'm out of a bad situation and we all learned that no matter how good you are, nobody wants to work with a loose cannon. The internet is awesome like that. Now people can search and learn for themselves.

Someday it will get built. Maybe in my car. Maybe in someone else's.  (If somebody is willing to pay what I have into it, they can have it!) I'm not upset about that in the least. Again... it's just a fancy gearbox in a toy car. I was honestly pissed / embarrassed that I may have offended Teby. (Teby put in a good word for me with Scott at Metalcraft). Teby, sorry man!

So, new topic...

I sold my 4 speed vintage shifter. I thought I had a 5 speed going in! (LOL) So, now I have a 5 speed vintage shifter here. Will that work with my 4 speed? It should, right? I lined up the shifter plate with my stock plate and they are nearly identical. The 5 speed base plate has a long tang on one side. I installed it but couldn't 'find' third and fourth. If I pulled up I could reach over and get them.  Seems odd. Unless the shift pattern really tightens up on a 5 speed?

Anyway, I may tear into that today. 

Oh, and the 55 is on the horizon. It's not if, it's when. Alexis is generally pretty cool. She might let me have both... right? It may cost me a new kitchen. That's fair... right?

 

Robert M (Not a Poopiehead) posted:

If it bolts on right the first time there's probably only one bolt involved. 

I was really concerned about tackling this big job, because it involves two bolts (Allen heads) but the water bottle holder on my road bike bolted right in....no problems.

 I'm so relieved.

 

Last edited by Ron O

Just raise your eyebrows, Carl.....

We'll get the message.  

Might need a different "decoder ring" though, for left, right, one or two eyebrows raised (or lowered).   Don't think my "Capt. Midnight" decoder can do that for me.  Might have to enlist the aid of guys like Alan Turig.  

Keep this thread going, Ted.........You might exceed the "Brass Thingie"(y) thread, yet!

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

I'm just going to keep it going to chronicle every update I make to the car.  Once the weather turns cold here in December the car will go up on jack stands so I can pull the 2056 and install some stainless fuel lines, relocate the cooler and some other stuff I've been putting off.  Considering upgrading the front brakes to some of Kevin's brakes. Still kicking that around a bit. 

I'm waiting on a cooler bracket from Kevin @coolryde so I can move the cooler to a useful spot. Where its at now isn't very efficient.  

My guess is that the trans will take... 15 maybe 16 weeks? Who knows. All that matters is that I'm int the queue with a reputable builder.  Most likely won't pull the trans until I get word that the new one is under the wrench.

Been kicking around the idea of a new top to match the sweet side curtains I picked up. 

Someday I should get this thing painted...

Stan, don't make me cry.  If it takes 8 months I'll be really bummed.  

Al- I shot you a PM. 

Regarding the brakes. I don't know that I'm maxing them out. I've never been 100% satisfied with the pedal feel.  I feel like maybe I've never been able to bleed them properly.  If I could figure out how to get the pedal to firm up I'd love to not spend an additional $1300.00! I also HATE the odd little 2"rubber line on the rear brakes. I'd love to get rid of that silly piece. 

I used a vacuum pump / compressor to pull the fluid through the lines and cylinders. I've read 10 times that you have to rotate the calipers to the 12 o'clock position to bleed them properly. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and do that?  That would mean I'd need a helper to pump pump pump the pedal.  I bet the boy would LOVE it.  Okay.. add that to the winter list. 

OH! and ... how many of you have doors that rattle when you hit bumps? Man... going down a back road sounds like I'm driving a covered wagon! I need to fix that. The doors shut well... it's just that they clatter and rattle on bumps. How do I fix that?!

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