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@IaM-Ray posted:

I think it does have an application but you cannot get under the center of the car but then with 52 inches you can do a lot of work under the car without crawling under it.

Long Live the two post which leave the whole bottom open.

But the lift points are where you want them and that leaves the area under the engine and the area under the front suspension clear based on the one photo of the lift. There's not much under the "scissor" area on our cars there. For your daily driver it may not be as convenient though.

Pretty identical to my Harbor Freight lift. The price is up since I bought it though, I didn't pay that much.

I used a 25% off coupon and paid about 100 shipping, and it weighs 900 pounds.

I've lifted Subarus, my 4700 pound Audi, my Cayman, my friends 986 Boxster, the back half of my Dodge truck, a customer sand rail, 20200506_125714_HDR20200507_120416_HDRand of course my Spyder.

Access on the Porsches and the Spyder are pretty good. A rear engine Speedster would be even better. If your car is LOW you'll need a platform or need to set it into the floor a few inches. It is only 3.5 or 4 inches high without the lift pads. I built a 2" high drive-on platform for mine from the crate(1/2" plywood) it came in, and some 2 x 3 lumber ripped down to 1.5". I made the ramp/platform 12" wide and a couple feet longer than the lift. This gets the front of the car high enough before going over the lift. Three of the ripped 2 x 1.5 across the ramps holds any weight.


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Last edited by DannyP

Thanks guys. The ramps truly serve a dual-purpose.

I made the center sections the exact wheelbase distance between my scales to weigh our cars. A few screws removes extensions from the folding sections for transport. I have an extra pair of angled pieces to form a weigh-bridge, just like F1, only not expensive LOL!

I plan to bring the setup to Carlisle(if we ever get to go again!) so people can weigh themselves with only a single setup by me. Hoping to set it up with the display unit on a chair right by the driver's door for self-service.

Too much weight. I wanted to make something strong enough but light enough to transport easily.

I also made a dolly for the rear of my Spyder. It fits between the frame rails under the engine/trans crossmember, raising the rear of the car high enough so the engine can slide out from underneath with carbs and fan shroud still installed. 4 x 4s and plywood combined with some caster wheels. Wood is easy to use, at least for me.

I have my Grandfather's 1950 Craftsman table saw with a rip fence. It has absolutely no safety at all. The Diablo blade I put on is awesome! I've been using it since I was a teenager. Michelle and I ripped the boards together. Easy as pie.

Carpenter Danny wrote: "I have my Grandfather's 1950 Craftsman table saw with a rip fence. It has absolutely no safety at all."

I built my first house with a Craftsman Radial Arm saw that I bought (on sale, of course) back in 1977.  Similarly, it had no safety features whatsoever, but that big drive motor and blade are both right there in front of you and can't be missed so it makes you more careful and I still have all of my fingers.

OTOH, a couple of my neighbors had table saws with most of the blade below the table and both of them either lost a thumb or severely cut into theirs.  I suppose that they weren't especially careful, either.

When we sold the house I tried to find a taker for the saw and it was then that I discovered how dangerous everyone thought they are.  Couldn't give it away so I ended up taking it to a metal salvage place.  Hated to do it, after all that it had helped me build - a house, a garage, lots of furniture, hobby stuff like birdhouses and Bat houses - Lots of stuff.  I almost wish someone played "Taps" for it while I tossed it onto the salvage pile.

Snoopy Salute


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  • Snoopy Salute

Grew up using a Shop Smith from the late 60's or early 70's. Other than putting on new belts and new blades the thing ran like a champ. It was everything. A table saw, a table router, a drill press, a jigsaw, a drum sander, a disc sander, and a lathe. ZERO safety features. A number of years before my dad passed he gave it to my brother-n-law who is a master woodworker so it's still in use.

" Used it to trim my home."

That reminded me of using my radial arm saw to make custom moldings for my house.  I had a 3-blade molding cutter that actually did a great job but you had to take it slow and only take off a little material at a time in multiple passes.

One time I got a little too enthusiastic and was trying to remove too much material.  The cutter grabbed the work piece and spit it out right past my rib cage at about 300 mph, slamming it into the concrete wall of the shop, right behind me by about 15 feet.  It hit with enough force to cause a small divot in the wall, maybe 3/16" deep.

I swear.....    I'm still here in spite of myself.

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