Skip to main content

@edsnova posted:

If you want to get it powdered, then for sure keep scrubbing. Your powder coater will appreciate it.

It’s a rare day that I contradict Ed, but if you’re going to get it coated don’t bother.

AFAIK, there isn’t a powder/ceramic coater out there that won’t insist on blasting pre-coat. ANY contaminant in the process, including oil from your hands, will ruin the coat and possibly anything else in the same batch in the oven. It’s built into their price. And no matter how clean your piece, they’re going to do it anyway.

And I’ll second Stan’s advice, and go a step further. I found an old blast cabinet at a yard sale for $5. I added a $50 ACE soda blaster and came up with a killer little setup that’s great for smallish alloy parts. It puts a great finish on anything and, if it matters, a coat of Eastwood’s Diamond Coat will keep that “just blasted” finish, forever.

Here’s my intake manifolds and generator stand freshly soda blasted:

eta: I should have read the rest of the thread.


Images (1)
  • mceclip0
Last edited by dlearl476

Nice love it … always dreamed of doing some blasting but everyone I talked to seem to be concerned about all the dust, it makes, etc. etc. but that looks real nice..  I also thought that trying to get all the water out to stop clumping might be an issue with my 60 gallon compressor… outside of cleaning off and blowing air in my tires, which I now have stopped doing due to a recent purchase of a Milwaukee M12 auto Airpump… the 60 gal is under used .

Last edited by IaM-Ray

Hello everyone,

Still waiting on parts, unfortunately the body shop is really busy for the next few weeks so have not dropped it in yet to have the suspension welded on.

On another note the weather is much warmer so I decided to take the plunge and file down the piston rings. I’ve not been looking forward to this, it took about 3 hrs and I truly messed up my first attemt at the second ring. Try not to laugh too hard when you see the picture, you could drive a tank through the gap 🤣.
So here is what happened, I filed down the compression ring which took forever as I think it is hardened steel. I had a drill attached to the ring grinder to make it easier. I started on the second ring, to start with it took a while to get a gap, I kept measuring it then suddenly it was way too big, I think this ring is made out of normal mild steel - take heed anyone about to attempt gapping your rings! In the end I used the 0.020 oversize ring I ordered, the ones where I thought the gap was to big, the gap was big but not as big as the gap in the picture. Lesson learnt, the rest of the rings went okay, they might be a little out by one or two thou, but according to the specs the gap can be up to 1mm (0.039). Only time will tell, I’ll keep you all posted if the engine blows up on me!


While I have been waiting for parts, I’ve been teaching myself how to TIG weld, I bought a new welder recently and it is a multi process welder, I’m quite enjoying it but the learning curve is much more than for MIG welding.


That’s it for now, I’ll keep you posted as to my progress.


Images (5)
  • IMG_0220
  • IMG_0217
  • IMG_0216
  • IMG_0218
  • IMG_0219

Hello everyone,

My crankshaft and conrods have arrived, so I have been cracking on with building the engine.

Here is the old and new crankshafts side by side, bit of a difference;


I installed the bearings into the case halves, as the crankshaft is new I fitted standard bearings:


I measured the crank journals, they are all within spec. I thought I would check the oil clearance with plastigage just to be on the safe side. It’s abit of a sequence bolting the case halves together, but I managed it without spinning the crank. On unbolting and measuring the plastigage I was a bit miffed when i measured it:


Yep, my great luck persists, the clearance is too big. The clearance should be 0.010 - 0.030 mm, mine is reading around 0.050 mm! Gutted, looks like I am going to have to order some oversize bearings.
Before I fork out for another set of bearings, has anyone got any experience with oversize bearings? king do a 0.026 oversize, I presume these would be suitable?

On another note, the heads are at the machine shop getting rebuilt, I was going to get them decked then rebuild them myself but after adding up all the seperate costs, I thought I might aswell get them built by a Subaru specialist for not much more than doing it myself. They should be done next week, I’ll keep you all posted.


Images (3)
  • IMG_0243
  • IMG_0245
  • IMG_0251

Decided to get the dial bore gauge out, I find these things a bit tricky to read, mine is imperial, so a little bit of converting needed:


I measured the main and rod journals earlier, then set my micrometer to 60mm (all of the mains were 60mm), I then set the dial bore gauge to zero when it was resting fairly even in the micrometer, here are the readings:


all of the clearances are on the left, the one that worries me is the one that reads 0.0027”, that corresponds to 0.068mm. The limit is 0.040mm, even with 0.026 oversize bearings it will still be out of spec. I think the thing to do here is to try and source a single 0.050 bearing………… or measure again after a couple of beers 🍻. That sounds better!


Images (2)
  • IMG_0254
  • IMG_2738

Add Reply

Post Content
Link copied to your clipboard.