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It was fun to build, and low cost since I scavenged material!

I flipped the pan over while I had some guys there to help. Next task is to start cleaning up the supports that were welded to the bottom of the pan. I’m going to remove the vertical leg of the angles that were welded across (marked in green), leaving just a flat bar across the bottom of the sheet metal.

The rear area where the seats go are plenty strong, look at all that steel!

Also, I have to do some work around where the pedals go (circled in red). The sheet metal needs to be “stretched” down like the original pans to allow the bottom of the pedal to clear the pan to properly engage the pedal stop. The pedal stop itself will need to be replaced to, the one that is there is a a “custom” piece that doesn’t allow for adjustment.



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Ok, not trying to get off track, but now that my body is up in the air on the cart, I can easily get up under there and look around a bit.

Red Xs - I am not going to use heat in my build, replacing the heat exchangers with j-pipes etc. Here in East Texas, there are pretty days to drive a topless car each month during the winter. I am going to put heat in the seats, get a good bomber jacket...anyway, I digress. I’m going to cut off the two pipes meant for the heater and weld a patch over the hole.

Yellow circles - According to the assembly manual, the plates circled are for the show bar supports. These could be removed since I’m not using the show bar.

Purple circle - from what I remember when my body was sitting on the pan, the tunnel cover to access the shift coupler was about half covered by this area. Does this part of the body (or frame?) need to be modified to be able to get the tunnel cover off?

Blue circle - this connection for the rear part of the frame, this doesn’t seem like a great joint to be supporting the WHOLE back of the car. Should this be reinforced somehow?

Green circles - these are glassed in 2x4s. These appear to be acting as spacers to hold the firewall in place. Is this correct? And has anyone had any problems long term with this material or method?426ED8D6-EF3B-484E-8045-BFB27827EEA3


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Easy to cap the pipes as Mike said all I do is stuff a piece of foam 3/4" " in and make a plug from silicone caulk. 2 x 4's should be wrapped in FG for add'l support. Also to retain a good vertical door gap, support the rear of the body tan drill out the rivets on the horizontal steel 2 x 2 in the wheel wells replace with five 5/16" bolts and exterior construction adhesive.

I used suitable size plumber's test plugs in both of the heater pipes (mostly to keep mice out).  It's an expansion plug - push it in, tighten the nut in the middle and you're done.

I happen to use the show bar supports, but even if I didn't I would leave them in there. All you'll save is 4 - 5 pounds.  I did weld in diagonal supports just behind the doors once I had the rear of the body straight.

Yes, the body overlaps the shift coupler access panel by a few inches.  Most of us just cut a piece out of the body just above the pan plate, then install a hinge to let you flip it up on those two times in 20 years when you might want to get in there.

Blue Circle Joint:  That's not all that's holding up the rear of the car.  There are also the two vertical wheel well panels which we release, then get the door gaps right and then glue and re-bolt the panels to hold the body in place.  See Alan's suggestions, above:

"Also to retain a good vertical door gap, support the rear of the body tan drill out the rivets on the horizontal steel 2 x 2 in the wheel wells replace with five 5/16" bolts and exterior construction adhesive."

Personally, I have never heard of that joint ever failing, but That's about where I ran my diagonal from the top of the vertical tube behind the doors (hint, hint).

I feel really cool, too, because my CMC was one of the last that they built
and my 2 X 4's came already wrapped in fiberglass.   billthecat01


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  • billthecat01

On the potential butt sag, many have also added some diagonal support to each side.  I used some flat pieces of steel bolted in.  I extened the square steel brace behing the door with a piece of angle iron to get a higher support angle to the rear. Others have even used turnbuckles and threaded rod.

steel rear reinforcement

I don't recall seeing the 2x4"s but there is a tremendous amount of wasted space back there.  The photo of the rear shifter coupler access - says "Leon's oil cooler cut out"  - lots of room back there for an oil cooler, gun safe, gas heater, speakers or other contraband (beer cooler?)


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Last edited by WOLFGANG

Great information, thank you! Plugging the heater tubes is a better idea (I tend to create more work for myself), and I like Gordon's idea of the plumber test plugs. I'll leave the show bar plates in place, again, why create more work, right?

I will add the bolts and extra support for the butt sag to my list to do when I get to the body.

For the tunnel cover, is that square tube in the frame not touching the tunnel, therefore allowing the tunnel cover to slide out from under? Then you can lift the access hatch y'all talked about creating in the fiber glass and service the shift coupler (every 20 years!), right?

Well its been awhile, and the Porsche project still sits neatly tucked in the corner of the garage. Spring activities and school are winding down, so maybe some work will get done this summer.

I did buy an engine for the Porsche, sort of a long term plan, follow along carefully for a second: My oldest daughter has her drivers permit and turns 16 in February. I want her to learn a manual transmission, so I bought her a car to give her plenty of time to learn the stick shift. Each of my daughters will get a turn in this "learner" car as they get their licenses. So in 6 years, this car will be mine again.

The car I bought is a 2005 Subaru Forester with a non-turbo 2.5L. SO, see where I am going with this?

After the girls are done learning I have a donor for a Subie swap in the Porsche!!

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