Skip to main content

@TreyG posted:

I looked at Lowe’s today, no luck. However I google searched and it looks like my local Autozone has one in stock. I’m going to run there in the morning and see if it is indeed in stock!

Sorry you struck out at Lowes. Were you looking for an Allen Wrench or a socket? They recently reorganized the tool section in my Lowes and all the separate sockets went from hanging on peg board hooks to being in drawers. It took me a minute to find the Allen sockets, but they did have them in almost every common size, including 17mm.

@TreyG posted:

Our Lowe’s is a wreck. They are reorganizing the whole place. When they finish I’ll refamiliarize myself with their layout and see what they have!

What a drag. I'm guessing the socket you needed was stuck in a bin somewhere awaiting the drawers to be installed. Sorry for the wasted trip.

FWIW,  like many of us I suppose, I've been a Craftsman guy all my life. Other than a few SnapOn bits I've found at pawnshops and a few Proto, KD, or other specialty tools, I've always had Craftsman.

Since the demise of Sears, I've really been pleased with the quality and availability of Lowe's Kolbalt line.

Me and the girls got the transaxle pulled today and some other miscellaneous stuff done. We are trying to get the pan disassembled to a point that we can power wash it real good, fabricate seat brackets as necessary, and then touch up paint to start reassembling as we get new parts. We are going to focus on brakes first.A7E5DB57-3345-4C85-9505-5C8AFCAFEF7A

Question 1: While removing the old, rock-hard rear IRS snubbers, the little mounting point was rusted through and came off with the passenger side snubber, see pics of good one and broken one. Any thoughts on how to repair this to mount a new snubber? I think I could fabricate one out 2 different diameter pipes to recreate that “mushroom”, or maybe there is a style mounted to a plate that I could screw to those two holes in the IRS arm?

1E8A55F7-50E0-4385-B274-B699C3DF9CEF841B56B7-71F0-4E84-87C9-445B13134BB8

Question 2: Anyone know what part number the seal is for the clutch and accelerator tubes where they exit the pan (see pic)? I found one on jBugs.com that looked correct, but it says its goes only goes through 1971 (https://www.jbugs.com/product/113-293D.html)

14B40F86-E429-41AD-A7F0-DBFC1F3DD310

Attachments

Images (4)
  • A7E5DB57-3345-4C85-9505-5C8AFCAFEF7A
  • 1E8A55F7-50E0-4385-B274-B699C3DF9CEF
  • 841B56B7-71F0-4E84-87C9-445B13134BB8
  • 14B40F86-E429-41AD-A7F0-DBFC1F3DD310

There are different seals depending on the year of the pan.  If yours don’t look like Impala’s versions, then compare what’cha got to these which are ‘68 - ‘79.

111301289B Is the seal at the front end of the transaxle.

https://socalautoparts.com/pro...-3-nose-cone-to-pan/

and this is what you need for the cable exit next to it

https://socalautoparts.com/pro...tch-cable-boot-seal/

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

In my first order of stuff, I got the 2 that impala had links for. I was thinking that these were from the 2 flexible Bowden tubes to the steel tubes coming out of the pan?

The second one that Gordon has a link to looks like it might work where the steel tubes exit the pan. I’ll add that to my list and try it out.

What about the snubber? Any ideas there?

Looks like you need a couple of these:

https://socalautoparts.com/pro...p-stop-rear-stock-2/

I think that should fit the mushroom on the “good” side if I picked the right one.

For the other side, the one that the mushroom rusted off of, you have several options and remember that the only force that snubber will ever see is compression from the top.

OK, so given that the compression force will never pull the snubber away from the seat, I would clean up the seat really well; wire brush tip on a drill, whatever it takes, just clean the heck out of it.   Maybe even use some rust preventative on it.  Then, go to NAPA and get a tube of 3M weatherstrip adhesive and use it to goop up the seat and just stick the snubber right onto the seat (watch out for adhesive coming out the bottom).  Let it set up for a couple of days and I bet you’ll have to use dynamite to remove it.

Maybe @Alan Merklin has some ideas, too.

BTW, I never installed the rear snubbers on my IRS car and even though it’s lowered (a lot), the suspension never compresses enough for anything to hit.

@Impala posted:

According to Wolfsburg West it looks like for cars after 1971 the single boot doesn’t work but rather each one; the clutch and accelerator tubes each has their own individual seal. That’s my understanding. I will check on the snubber issue. There might be a solution other than finding a replacement arm.

Thanks Impala. I haven’t tried the ones I have, I should try those on first and see how they work out.

Gordon, you have good points about the compression, as well as that the suspension probably doesn’t ever get close to hitting it. I’ll try cleaning it up and epoxing the snubber on there.

I finished disassembly of the pan today so ready for power washing. I took apart that super beetle front beam adaptor so I could clean and repaint all that too.

I also did a little investigation of the rear snubbers and I think that style y’all suggested with the bolt in the bottom is the going to be the way to go. I will cut off/grind smooth the original mount that isn’t rusted off and clean up the other side to. Drill the appropriate hole in them and bolt the new snubber on. Should be easy!94ACE565-B59D-4461-A48C-92604F0EC428FD1B1E43-99B0-4621-9719-2D5FB5A01FB4

Attachments

Images (2)
  • 94ACE565-B59D-4461-A48C-92604F0EC428
  • FD1B1E43-99B0-4621-9719-2D5FB5A01FB4

I removed the emergency brake handle and the cables tonight. The cables and the flexible tube that goes from the pan to the drum look pretty bad so I will replace them.

My rear brake backing plates are in good shape but need a good cleaning and repainting. My Haynes manual doesn’t give a description of how to remove them, it just says something like “remove diagonal arm and take to your local VW dealer to have all the special bearings pressed out .....”

See the attached photo, it appears to me that I can remove the 4 bolts I have circled in red and the backing plate should come off. Can y’all confirm this or tell me the proper way to remove the backing plate?

6F7A1B1B-7695-4DEB-8B66-A9E5CFF19759

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 6F7A1B1B-7695-4DEB-8B66-A9E5CFF19759

I deleted it, Trey.  It was a warning about the swing-axle seals you'd have to replace after removal and replacement pf the backing plate.  After posting I decided to go back and look at the picture which showed that your car has IRS, rendering my reply not applicable.  In a swing-axle car it is not always easy to get those seals to work properly and you risk fouling your brakes with transaxle grease - potentially with disastrous effect as I found out.IMG_0312

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_0312
Last edited by Lane Anderson

Got the pan and the front beam and adaptor power washed today. My Bentley manual should be here in the next week. When it gets here I am going to remove those rear backing plates and get them cleaned up.

Next will be to flip the pan over and take a good look at how the previous owner replace/reinforced the pan. Also, I will be positioning the seats and making sure I have reinforcement for the seat mounts and the seat belts.

92B587CC-6467-464B-BE58-F53B94E76A46

Power washing

7EAC6DF7-62F2-42FD-A9D6-3EB460E65349

Flipping the pan over

E2E0E697-9BF5-4F8D-B581-21E07272471F

Wheeling the pan back in.

Attachments

Images (3)
  • 92B587CC-6467-464B-BE58-F53B94E76A46
  • 7EAC6DF7-62F2-42FD-A9D6-3EB460E65349
  • E2E0E697-9BF5-4F8D-B581-21E07272471F

Add Reply

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×