Most of these engines DO NOT have a crank "seal". The case has a machined hole of a certain size and the pulley is supposed to be a few thousandths under that. On the end of the crankshaft BEHIND the outside of the case is an oil deflector washer. The crank pulley is actually machined with a spiral groove that actually pushes any weeping oil back inside.
If any measurements are off or changes made to the system(ie: 2332cc) the system tends not to work. This system is designed for maybe 1900cc and low revs. Larger displacements create crankcase pressure problems. Higher revs create more vapors and pressure. It has to go somewhere.
Now, you may in fact have a crank pulley seal, but no type1 ever came with one. You may be able to see it behind the pulley. If not, read the engine spec sheet, or check with your builder. The "slip-in" style is easier to see than the "machine-in" style. The machine seal means the case is machined to accept a seal. The slip-in has a carrier that protrudes from the case. I machined my case to accept the Berg double-lip seal. Mine doesn't leak there. If you get a seal you need to change the pulley too. IMHO, it is important to get a steel pulley hub or an aluminum hub with a steel sleeve pressed on. Aluminum is not hard enough to have an oil seal ride on it.
My engine drips from my oil cooler block off. It also weeps from the oil pump(not stock it is a 2 stage dry sump pump and sticks out about 4 inches). I could fix it, but instead just throw a piece of cardboard on the floor.
I'm not trying to discourage chasing a leak. You may get a drip-free VW, but it is unfortunately unlikely.
The good news is that there is definitely oil IN the engine if there are a couple drops coming OUT!